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Singapore, December 1, 2012 IN THE 1970s, as many as 200 traditional bakeries producing conventionally prepared breads and buns dotted the island. Now, there are just eight left. This is due to a whole gamut of problems ranging from rising operations costs and a lack of manpower to competition from modern shops such as BreadTalk, said the bakery owners left in the trade. It does not help that the work is gruelling. The bakeries are open all day and operate through the night, churning out batch after batch of freshly baked bread. At Sing Hon Loong in Whampoa, for example, almost 1,400 loaves of traditional brown and white crustless breads are made and distributed to hawkers and cafes daily. The bakery also produces 1,400 buns, rolls and french loaves every day. "Few Singaporeans are willing to pick up the trade and work in such a hot and stuffy environment," said Mr Ng Yek Heng, 56, who owns Sweetlands Confectionery and Bakery. "Those who come to us for training do not complete it. They give up because the hours are long and the work is tough." Like other small and medium-sized enterprises, bakeries have had to rely on foreign manpower, but there have been hiring curbs since mid-2009. On top of that, business is no longer as good as it once was. "We were easily making $8,000 every month in 2003 but in the past three years, we can barely cover our output," said Mr Ng. He noted, for example, that rent has jumped from $4,000 in 2003 to $9,000 for the three units Sweetlands leases at Kim Keat. And while there is still demand for additive-free breads, the jump in cost of ingredients is also hurting profit margins, said Mr Mah Hock Hiong, 50, who owns Jie Bakery and Confectionery. A 25kg packet of flour which cost $16.50 in 2003, for instance, now costs $30. "We can't really pass on the increases to clients so we have to absorb some of the cost," said Mr Mah, adding that a loaf of bread which sells for $1.40 at his store has increased by just 40 cents over the past 20 years. To document and promote awareness about the dying trade, the National Heritage Board (NHB) will be producing a short video featuring one of the shops, part of its Heritage In Episodes series of short documentaries aimed at connecting with the younger generation through social media. NHB has been enlisting the help of secondary school and Institute of Technical Education students over the course of the year to interview owners of other traditional businesses such as kiddy rides and street barbers. The first five episodes will be launched today on NHB's YouTube channel. Yesterday, Secondary 1 students from the Mediacomm Club and the Audio-Visual Aids Club at Sembawang Secondary School learnt first-hand about the trade at Sweetlands. Straits Times food editor Tan Hsueh Yun, 45, said it is a waste that such bakeries are fading out. "Nothing beats soft white bread, spread with butter and kaya and toasted over a charcoal grill," she said. "Even though the Singaporean palate has grown more sophisticated... these simple treats and familiar flavours take us back to simpler times." The remaining 8
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>> Photos: Traditional bakeries in S'pore
