The Japanese Hamburger War has begun...

There are hamburgers and there are hamburgers.

And there's also Hanbaagu - the Japanese version of the hamburger minus the sliced bun.

When hamburger eatery Ma Maison, the Nagoya chain of cottage-like eateries opened in Singapore - first at Bugis Junction and then at The Central - we expected to see them churning out the Americanised MosBurger version.

Nope, Ma Maison's Haabaagu (or penned as Hamburger Steaks in the English menu) is more dressy that that. Served on a hotplate, it's crowned with an orangey sunny-side-up with a runny yolk, sits on a thin bed of cabbage shred accompanied by baby carrots, bits of sweet pickle, a generous clump of fries, a dainty sprig of cress and two small shishito (Japanese green chilli peppers).

The dish is served with a sizzling flourish as the server pours a gravy over the hamburger. Then you dig in. And you better do it fast before the precious gravy boils down furiously into a reduction of brown gravy bits that get stuck onto the hotplate.

Then you have to scrape them off, smear them on a cut piece of the hamburger before you shovel everything into your mouth. Nearly an inch thick, the minced meat is flavourful and even more so when devoured with the gravy bits.

This is chopped meat, not the finely minced supermart version, so you get a good meaty bite that spills with juice. How do you handle the neatly round sunny-side-up? Just prick the yolk and let it flow over the hamburger and gravy and enjoy everything together as you would roast lamb European style.

By then the cabbage slivers would have become caramelised teppanyaki, charred and shrivelled but still lovely (if you like charred stuff). The baby carrots and shishito peppers have slightly caramelised too, so you are rewarded with cooked sweet juices.

And the gravy would have crept under the fries, turning some soggy while the rest still remain crisp.

Oh, the gravy! Didn't I say it was precious? It's actually Ma Maison's pride - it claims that the gravy takes 28 days to produce!Probably beef meat and bones, herbs, tomatoes, soya sauce have gone into the pot to make this signature demi-glace.

The result is actually quite appetising, and does not taste like a leftover' sauce. It partners the hamburger amicably. But even on its own, the hamburger is wonderfully tender and delicious, with a piquant tang of HP or Worcestershire sauce.

If you don't like fries to go with Ma Maison's hamburger, you can order the delicious Omu Rice, a buttery rice wrapped in a flat egg omelette.



Then enters The Canteen's take of the Japanese hamburger which is touted as "Hanbaagu" on its menu.Backed by its formidable counterparts in the Les Amis Group of restaurants, the The Canteen in Shaw Centre is almost like clinical but has double the space of Ma Maison in The Central.

Canteen's hamburger is a thicker round of mince, also topped with a sunny-side-up. The meat seems machine-minced (read WELL-minced) but the bite is surprisingly tender and adequately juicy.

You can taste a blend of raw onion, herbs and Worcestershire sauce in the hamburger. It's drizzled with a sweet teriyaki sauce and the accompaniments are western lettuce leaves and a bowl of ...boiled Thai rice!

Some work is required before you stuff the Hanbaagu into your mouth. You need a knife or tablespoon to cut it into bite sizes. Then eat each piece with the rice with a tablespoon or a pair of chopsticks.

If you think that's too troublesome, then empty the bowl of rice over the hamburger and eat it with fork and spoon. Some diners do that.

Thai rice might be a familiar staple here but some diners prefer the Japanese short-grain variety or fries to go with the hamburger.

I'm not sure whether the teriyaki sauce is as precious as Ma Maison's but I wish both eateries would be more generous with it.

In The Canteen's case, one would expect adequate lashings of gravy to go with the rice too

The Canteen's simpler Hanbaagu costs $16 (before taxes) while Ma Maison's Hamburger Steak hovers slightly above at $17.80 (before taxes). But on Monday evenings, Ma Maison's ladies night offers a 20 per cent discount for all ala carte items, which means the Hamburger now costs $16.75 (after taxes) and cheaper than The Canteen's.

The Hanbaagu war has begun.

Personally, I feel Ma Maison's Hamburger Steak has more winning streaks. What with the tantalising aromas of sizzling meat on hotplate when the gravy is poured over it, the heat of the plate keeping the food warm and caramelising the veggies and the colourful ensemble of ingredients.

While the jazz music, English cottage paraphernalia and the menu of French, Italian and Japanese dishes seem to clash with one another, Ma Maison is still a homey venue with a splendid view of Singapore River and Clarke Quay.

Reaching there is no issue as it sits above Clarke Quay MRT station. Or you can hop onto The Central's free shuttlebus which picks up commuters at City Hall and Raffles Place from lunch time.

It's not too late for experimental Canteen to fight back with a more impressive Hanbaagu.

Anyway, it's also conveniently located (near Orchard MRT station) and makes a restful stop especially when you're shopping madly at Isetan Scotts. Though its decor is functional and ambience cold, you can feel at home once you have frequented it enough and get to
know the staff.

It's great for people watching. You get all sorts here - shoppers, office executives, tai-tais, families and yuppies tackling an assortment of noodles here or just passing by. 

By the way, The Canteen is sandwiched by two McDonald's outlets, one next to it, the other outside on Scotts Road. But then, both appeal to different clientele.

The war is really between Ma Maison and The Canteen. Or is it?

When I crave for a Hanbaagu, I'd just zap to Isetan Scotts supermarket in the basement.The frozen hamburger steak with gravy by Iseya Foods Singapore passes well as a gourmet treat. The damage? Just a couple of dollars and a few minutes in the microwave.

Though less thick, it's tender and juicy, and comes with a delicious
savoury gravy. Jusheeee...Oishiiii-desu!

This is no Hanbaagu humbug.

Ma Maison Restaurant
03-96 The Central
6 Eu Tong Seng Street
Tel: 6327-8122
Opening hours: 11.30am to 3pm (lunch), 6 to 10pm (dinner), daily

The Canteen
01-101B Shaw Centre
Scotts Road
Tel: 6738 2276
Opening hours: 11am to 11pm (Sun to Wed), 11am to 1am (Thur to Sat)