By Wee Jun Kai, The Business Times, 21 April 2008

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WORLD GOURMET SUMMIT

TRUFFLE gourmets here have reason to cheer as well-known truffle expert Pierre-Jean Pebeyre showcases his wares tomorrow for the World Gourmet Summit. The Pebeyre Truffle dinner features a six-course truffle blitz presented by the executive sous chef of mezza9, Stig Drageide, and executive chef Brian Cleere of the Grand Hyatt.

Mr Pebeyre, managing director of Pebeyre Truffles, is head of the only French company that specialises exclusively in the truffle trade, managing the distribution of some 70 per cent of the world's truffle market. Sourcing his truffles from France, Spain, Italy and, most recently, Australia, Mr Pebeyre shares his insights on why truffles are getting more and more expensive.

He explains in an email interview in French: 'The production of truffles in France has been in irreversible decline for a century, passing from 800 tonnes per year in 1900-1910 to less than 15 tonnes these last 10 years. From the 1960s till today, the quantity produced is down to a quarter of what it used to be, while the prices have risen by 4.5 times.'

He adds: 'Due to the climate this year, following a very dry summer notably in Italy, the production in Europe has been weaker than last year's.'

With the dwindling supply and rising prices, it is no wonder that truffle fans everywhere, including Mr Pebeyre, have been looking towards Australia as a possible new source of truffles.

He says: 'For the time being, and according to what I have observed, there is no difference in quality between truffles harvested in Europe and Australia.'

However, he cautions: 'For European truffles, the consistency of the quality from France, Spain and Italy is definitely recognised. On the other hand, we have had only very little time, four years, to compare the quality of truffles harvested in Australia with those harvested in Europe.

'Currently, Spain, France and Italy produce 45 per cent, 40 per cent and 15 per cent of truffles worldwide - Australia does not currently produce enough truffles to be classified on the same level. It is also important to note that white truffles, for now, do not grow outside Europe.'

But if all this doesn't really matter to you, and all you want to do is eat your fill of truffles, then just dig in tomorrow night at the Grand Hyatt where $248++ will get you an evening of ambrosial delights.

Mr Pebeyre's responses were translated by Eugene Thong Wei Liang