To be honest, fusion cuisine is not my cup of tea. More often than not, the blend of disparate culinary influences misses the mark. However, I was pleasantly surprised when I reviewed Olio's new menu which features a number of fusion items: there were markedly more hits than misses and the fusion dishes were generally harmonious and palatable.

First up was the Capellini Miso Salmon Fillet ($14.90). This pasta dish came with a generous helping of roe, which was not only visually attractive but added textural contrast as well. I liked the salmon, which had been marinated in miso and was slightly sweet. The cream sauce had a touch of miso as well for flavour, but did not come across as too overwhelming or rich. It is easy to see why this is a popular item. The pasta was adequately done, though it was not al dente enough for me. Still, the choice of capellini (a thin type of pasta) rather than the usual spaghetti was a good one - the thinner noodles go well with the light sauce.

Another fusion pasta dish on the menu is the Laksa Spaghetti ($12.90). Don't expect oodles of laksa gravy here - that is not the focus. Rather, what gives the dish its unique flavour is the generous use of laksa leaf. Tau pok, slices of hard boiled eggs and sauteed chicken contribute to the dish's 'local' flavour, but what impressed me most was the fact that it was flavourful without being too spicy. I rarely enjoy laksa as many places make it way too hot for my taste buds to handle, but Olio has now provided me with a reasonable alternative.

A must-try is the Teriyaki Pizza ($13.90). This unusual, sweetish pizza has a very thin and crisp crust and is topped by a generous helping of fish flakes. One of my dining companions liked the fact that each slice of pizza was very substantial despite the crust's thinness. The use of avocado was unusual, but its sweetness combined well with the teriyaki sauce and cheese.

If you enjoy soft shell crab but are hankering for something a little more substantial, you might wish to try the Soft Shell Crab Sandwich ($10.90). This hefty sandwich has alfafa, deep-fried soft shell crab and wasabi mayo between two thick slices of foccacia bread. I would recommend this if you have a craving for the crispy crustacean but are too hungry to be satisfied with just a side order ($9.90) - the foccacia is bound to fill you up.

The Five Spice Lamb Rack ($17.90) was aromatic, thanks to the marinade of spices. However, we found it slightly too salty for our tastes. Still, the lamb earns points for having no gamey odour, and for being reasonably easy to cut and chew.

The highlight of the meal was dessert. The Olio Brownie ($7.50) has a layer of vanilla gelato sandwiched between two brownie slices. This is served on a sizzling hot plate, and drizzled over with hot fudge at your table. The novel presentation encourages you to dig in - the sizzle and aroma of super-heated chocolate is just too tempting to resist. This is a dessert that is meant to be shared - unless you are eating on an empty stomach, it would be difficult for a single person to finish this item.

Olio's latest outlet at Holland Village is a restaurant cum cafe like the main outlet in Suntec City. What this means is that while you can enjoy a good meal, you can also walk in for a quick snack. The Wing Zings ($8.90) are juicy, while the Breaded Crab Cakes ($7.90) are rather substantial and meaty. The Combo Platter ($14.90) is a good choice if you are sharing with friends.

With good food at reasonable prices, a chic yet cosy interior and friendly service, Olio at Holland Village has the potential to appeal to just about anyone looking for a good cafe to hang out in. With opening hours up to 11:30pm on weekdays and 1am on Fridays and Saturdays, late-night owls living in the area have yet another supper destination to choose from. Just keep your eyes peeled - the current signage is nondescript and it may be easy to miss the cafe, located across El Patio and next to Wala Wala, altogether.

Olio Restaurant & Cafe
29 Lorong Mambong
(S) 277687
Tel: 62197668
Opening hours: 11.30am to 11.30pm (Mon - Thur); 11.30am to 1.00am (Fri, Sat & Eve of PH); 8.30am to 11.30pm (Sun & PH)