I remember toting my old Nikon FM film camera with a 43-86 zoom lens and hitting the streets of Chinatown in the late ’70s and early ’80s, well before they bulldozed away a part of my colourful childhood. I can recall the filth, smells, pollution, noise and that calm old Samsui woman touting cheap discarded vegetables over newspapers on the floor meant for the poor.

I can still visualise the street-side wet market where the turtle hawker was. He simply pried open a mid-sized terrapin and sold whatever parts – skin, meat, offals – that customers wanted. Order a fresh chicken and the death knell would be immediately spelt for the “chosen one”– a precise slit to the throat and it was quickly lowered into a vat of boiling water before being de-feathered.

Chaotic but Cosy

The Cantonese porridge stall always had to “tap toi” (stack tables) and lay them along the five-foot walkways in front of pre-war shophouses that had not opened for the day. In the evenings, the pasar malam would come alive and draw the crowds back for cheap clothing, candies, the snake oil man and his death-defying potions, cheap electronics from Hong Kong and freshly grilled bak kwa.

About 25 years ago, everyone was airlifted and relocated into a swanky new Chinatown Market and Food Centre. They sanitised the streets and brought in vendors who sold pigtail hats and laced fans souvenirs to tourists. The food centre was a hot hit, literally – badly ventilated, dank and jam-packed with good, cheap food. Then about two years ago, they renovated the food centre. Today, the Chinatown food centre is back from its temporary hiatus at Outram Road. So, what’s the buzz now?

I hope nothing much, apart from the $17.3 million physical cosmetic makeover, because its character should not be sanitised and gentrified. I can easily spot some of the better improvements. Like the most scenic spot (beside stall #02-81 overlooking the busiest Chinatown junction at Trengganu Street) or the greenest corner (the huge airy alcove beside stall #02-118 with a view of the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple).

However, I am saddened by some unhealthy hidden business practices still in place. Some stalls with an “original licence” are profiteering by subletting their stalls to the highest bidder. They still pay ridiculously low official rents (a few hundred bucks) and hope to sublet it for up to $3,000. This, in turn, drives up the cost of operations and selling prices.

If these folks, who were once given the licences due to “hardship” situations, no longer need to make a living out of selling food, they should return the licence and let others have a go. The authorities should preserve these licences for a new generation of hawkers who can then preserve the Chinatown culture and interview them for their intent.

I shudder thinking about how muffin and doughnut stalls may invade the place. But I’m happy many of my old favourites are back.

1. The Niu Che Shui Glutinous Rice stall (#02-40), with its signature smooth, sweet and savoury versions all topped with crispy shallots, still faithfully sells out by about 10am.

2. Crispy as ever, the An Ji fish head (#02-193/4), which sells a mean black bean sauced crispy Sang Mee (crispy noodles) with sliced beef or fish, will open today.

3. My comfort food, Tian Tian Porridge (#02-186), is still at the same old corner, after a two-year break.

4. The master of soon to be “vanished food”, the Sat Kay Ma master (Pan Ji at #02-78) is back rolling, kneading, layering and frying his flour, eggs and malt sugar candy crumble.

5. There’s a patient morning queue for the famous Xiu Ji Ikan Bilis Yong Tau Foo (#02-88).

6. My favourite walnut, almond, peanut, sesame cream is back at 115 Tang Shui (#02-206). 

This article was first published in The New Paper on May 16, 2008.