After five-and-ahalf years, restaurant Ember has a made a name for itself with its highly accessible modern European food, with Asian accents.

It has been a solid and usually reliable fixture on the local dining scene but now, in line with the restaurant’s recent renovation, chef Sebastian Ng has upped his culinary game a notch or two further.

The revamped interior now sports a more subdued and sophisticated executive look, in sharp contrast to the playful, quirky lobby of the Hotel 1929 just next door. Perhaps, the thinking may go: now that it’s an established player, it should look a little more Establishment.

Anyway, the decor now includes a carpet on the lower level, leather designer chairs and muted lighting to give the place a softer, more elegant ambiance. The space is perhaps difficult to work with and the acoustics were always a little harsh, but the new look improves on the situation somewhat – just don’t go looking for a church-like atmosphere.

The food, however, is worth paying homage to and makes a stop at Ember a worthwhile endeavour. Based on a couple of recent meals, there is a renewed confidence to the cuisine – a spring in the culinary step, as it were – which is typically uncomplicated, perfectly cooked and nicely presented. Many of the popular dishes from before are still available, but there are also several new items on the menu.

The three-course set lunch menu ($38) offers plenty of choices, including (for an extra six bucks) a foie gras starter. Appetisers come along the lines of a deep-fried soft shell crab, pan-roasted prawn with mesclun salad or a crispy tofu with foie gras-mirin sauce – everything is also available on an a la carte basis.

Dinner the other night included a starter of angel hair pasta with konbu (kelp) and shaved abalone, a variation of a dish that seems to be making the rounds at several of the top restaurants in town. There was also a dish of pan-seared Chilean sea bass with mushroom and smoked bacon ragout – the flesh was moist, tender and flavourful.

Other winning combinations included a French duck breast with Japanese cream corn, and roasted pork belly with savoy cabbage. Chef Ng is about to roll out two versions of this dish – one with crispy skin intact, one without (go for the skin).

Desserts are all good, but the best of the lot is the apple tart for two, with a nice puff pastry and large chunks of fruit.

The restaurant is also happy to arrange a tasting menu (anything between four and eight courses) for $100 and up. “The goal is always to improve,” says the chef. “I’m always trying to get better.” He’s obviously doing something right at the new – and improved – Ember.

Restaurant Ember
50 Keong Saik Road
Tel: 6347-1928

This article was first published in The Business Times Weekend on May 31, 2008.