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Singapore, May 23, 2010- B at The Bellini Grande, which opened at the former Crazy Horse premises a month ago, may call itself a brasserie but the food is presented fine-dining style. Not that I am complaining. Because the prices, with most starters below $20 and main courses ranging from $24 to $38, are definitely those of a less formal brasserie. The Bellini Grande (say “gron-day”) is a nightspot complex in Clarke Quay with a jazz bar and big-band showroom on the ground floor. The brasserie is on the second floor in a quiet, intimate room with a show kitchen at one end. Those who have been to the old Crazy Horse’s Le Restaurant will recognise that the general layout has been unchanged. The Peranakan mirrors on one of the walls look rather familiar too. But the colour red that once dominated everything from the carpet to the padded walls is gone, replaced by more sombre black and wood hues. I dropped in for dinner unannounced last Tuesday and found the cooking decent but unspectacular. I started with a mushroom toast with braised endive, foie gras and port wine sauce ($19) that was rich in flavour but suffered from a soggy pastry. My main course of rack of lamb with edamame puree and roasted garlic sauce ($32) had the meat – which I had asked to be medium – veering too closely to being well done. The meat was still very tender but had little of its juices left. Only my dessert impressed me, a chocolate chilli tart with ginger paste and caramel ice cream ($12). At first bite, the slice of innocent-looking pastry tasted like a rich chocolate cake, but then the heat from the chilli crept in. And it started getting stronger and stronger. By the time I felt my face burning, it was too late. I was hooked on the intriguing combination of sugar and spice. It really was everything nice. After the dinner, however, I found out that the restaurant’s executive chef Jeffrie Siew had been out that evening and returned only just before my dessert was served. Since I often revisit restaurants before writing my reviews, I decided to go back the following night, again unannounced. But the chef was there and recognised me straight away, having met me during his previous stint at Corduroy & Finch in Bukit Timah. This time, the food was excellent. I took up his recommendation of crabmeat soup ($14) to kick off the meal and had no regrets. It was a full-flavoured and creamy bisque with a distinct fragrance of brandy. And there was a generous amount of sweet crabmeat in it. My companion’s scallops with grilled cauliflower and seaweed sauce ($19) were delicious too. The scallops were cooked just right and had a sweetness that attested to their freshness. My main course of crayfish cannelloni with shitake mushrooms ($29) from the pasta section had the shellfish wrapped in a thin pasta sheet and a blanket of yummy melted cheese. The dish also had crispy pieces of cheese crackers that were heavenly. My dessert this time was very good too, a goat cheese brulee ($12) that I had misgivings about ordering at first for fear it would be too strong. But it turned out to be pleasantly mild. I could taste the cheese but only just, right at the back of my palate. It was a study in understated elegance and a great way to end a delightful meal. Great food, good prices. So I wouldn’t call this place a B. These guys deserve a B+ at least. MUST TRY
Chocolate chilli tart with ginger paste and caramel ice cream ($12)
An intriguing combination of chocolate and chilli.
Be sure you can take the heat, though.
Address: B AT THE BELLINI GRANDE
Clarke Quay, The Foundry, 3B River Valley Road, 01-01
Tel: 6336-7676 (after 5pm)
Open: 6 to 10.30pm (Sundays to Thursdays), 6 to 11pm (Fridays and Saturdays)
Food: ****
Service: ***½
Ambience: ***
Price: Budget from $70 per person
