A SINGAPORE PRESS HOLDINGS WEBSITE
by Yeoh Wee Teck
Singapore, September 14, 2012 Mariners' Corner Restaurant The song Those Were The Days by Mary Hopkin was playing the afternoon I walked into Mariners' Corner Restaurant. And after casting a quick glance at the interior, I thought: "How appropriate." The restaurant has been around since 1984 and it looked as if not much has changed since. From the carpet to the table cloth to the furnishings, it all harked back to an earlier era. But Mariners' Corner Restaurant must be doing something right to remain in business for nearly 30 years, with so many changes to the F&B scene. It looks slightly dated, but it is bursting with atmosphere and charm. And the service from the older staff is top-notch. They are attentive, informative and friendly enough for you to want to share your life story with. But they will politely leave you alone to your meal and appear when you need something. It's the sort of old-fashioned service that we lament is missing these days. And the food is mostly good, too. A must-order is the colonial oxtail stew ($16.50 a la carte). One taste and you can understand why this is a signature dish. It is full-bodied, filling and gorgeous to look at. The oxtail is cooked for about seven hours, so it is tender, and the sauce has a slight and pleasant tang. Owner Jeremy Say, who took over the restaurant from his father, said the recipe came from his grandfather. But he lets us in on one of the not-so-secret secret ingredients: "All Hainanese chefs use Lea & Perrins sauce." It is eaten alone, but dip the garlic bread and enjoy it. The threadfin fish and chips ($18.80 a la carte) is also good. It is lightly coated with herbs, paprika and breadcrumbs, and the fish inside is moist. The lobster bisque ($6) is done the old-fashioned way - with shells of every crustaceans the kitchen can lay their hands on, and boiled. The result is a broth that has oomph and flavour. Get the escargot, too. At $10.20 for six, it is one of the more expensive dishes, but it's worth the money. The snails have a smokey aroma and the fried garlic helped enhance the dish. Like instant soup Everything I tasted was good, except for the cottage fresh mushroom soup ($5), which was weak and watered down like instant soup. I wasn't too impressed with the salad bar either ($15.50, but free with some set meals). But my partner - who is Hainanese and determined to like every Hainanese establishment - loved it. I would wish for a bigger variety, but I will admit that what there is is good enough as a starter. I am late in discovering this restaurant. There have been loads of write-ups about it, all with a nostalgic bent. It's heartening to know that diners are embracing the older establishments. And the family-owned restaurant is equally set on keeping things the same as much as possible. The portions are the same as they were in 1984 - pre-inflation value-for-money type sizes - and the recipes are passed down from the previous generation. There are also many set meals combinations and options, so your meal is more worthwhile. This is the best news for the future of our culinary scene. Get The New Paper for more stories.
120 Cantonment Road, #01-02, Maritime House
Singapore 089760
Opening hours: Opens daily, 11.30am to 3pm for lunch, and 6pm to 10pm for dinner
Tel: 6224-9928 for reservations
